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Say the words "Chinese hot pot" to most people and their mind goes straight to fire: a red-oil surface trembling under a cloud of chilli steam, the table going quiet while everyone reaches for something cold to drink. It is...

Walk into any Chinese supermarket in Britain and you will meet the same wall. A whole shelf, sometimes two, of hot pot bases: deep red packages, orange packages, packets with a pepper on them, packets with a mountain on them,...